There are many things that Kampala is known for, but the things it is not known for far outweigh everything else. It is easy, traveling through this city, to think that it is devoid of artists.
Kampala has turned into an unattractive concrete jungle with one ugly box building as hideous as the next. Many Ugandans have left what little they know about interior design in confines of their homes, leaving our working spaces uninspiring and unspeakably plain.
Today I was unprivileged to have a conversation with a ‘top’ official from Kampala City Council (KCC) on plans for 2008. Tired of the usual empty promises about cleaner roads, more streetlights and improved health facilities, I tried to steer him into an area he was clearly unfamiliar with: quality of life.
For about an hour I attempted in vain to engage the city official on the qualitative issues of living in Kampala. I asked about what KCC has in store to increase the value of life for the city’s residents; what’s its environmental health policy; plans for new innovations. Unfortunately I couldn’t get more out of him than “all that requires money and KCC is cash strapped.”
Nothing proved harder for the KCC mukubwa to speak about than public art. Not only did I have to explain what public art is, but also how it will benefit Kampala. It was probably the most angst-inducing interview I have ever conducted.
The conversation on public art went something like this:
Me: Since you say KCC has absolutely no plans in regards to libraries, theatres, sports and culture, perhaps it’s too much for me to ask about public art?
KCC: (With a thick Central Uganda accent) Pabuliki arti? What is she pabuliki arti?
Me: You know, art of any kind … that is specifically planned to be staged in public and is accessible to all.
KCC: Ho oh! Ayi know dati wanu. Like Ddikula. (He laughs heartily)
Me: No. Not like Ddikula. Okay, just a bit like Ddikula, although he really falls in the category of street theatre. (Aside) Street theatre of the crudest kind, if you ask me …KCC: Padoni?Me: I was saying public art is defined by things like monuments, memorials, special lighting and fountains … you know, things like that.
KCC: I don’t andahstandi.
Me: You’ve been abroad. You know buildings that have special architectural detail and are really beautiful?
KCC: Like deh mosque in Odi Kampala?
Me: Kinda, but not specifically. The mosque is beautiful, but it isn’t unique. Public art is commissioned by an individual, corporation, foundation or the city itself and it is developed to serve a unique artistic function. It isn’t just a building whose design was copied brick-for-brick from something from abroad. It must mean something to the artist or to the commissioning body.
KCC: Eh! Dozi wanuz do we havu the maney for dem? Follas we consenturati on developmental things. Like schooluzi, clinikisi, rubbishi and soh onu.
Me: (Restraining myself from shoving my microphone down his throat) You have already said a million times that you don’t have money. I get it. It seems you don’t have money for anything. But surely this is something that you can consider for the future? You can even lobby foundations abroad, art galleries and philanthropists in the country to do something.
KCC: Eh, but mayi dohtah! Dozi things are foh abload.
Me: (Raising my voice ever so slightly) But they don’t need to be. How many students do we have at the fine art school in Makerere? You can engage them in a contest to produce a beautiful sculpture for the KCC gardens or for the Constitutional Square or even a large roundabout and offer a small monetary prize. Students are always glad for the exposure and experience. You can do the same for other public works projects so we don’t have the same boring buildings crammed in the city. You can even engage someone in designing a park. I have a friend …
KCC: Pakaz we havu. Odi taxi paka, new taxi paka, bus paka, … even we havu solodi deh land alound the pakaz. We are goingi to puti yapu shoppingi molozi like de wanuz in Amelikah!
I gave up on public art and turned to more inane topics like what he did for Eid last week and if he is ever going to marry a fifth wife. The interview ended with an invitation for me to join him for lunch at the nearest Bon Apetite. I turned down the offer because oil-soaked chips and chaps and burned gonja are not considered appropriate cuisine no matter how broke I am.
Perhaps the rest of the country is broke as well. I mean mentally, intellectually and creatively broke. What else would explain the near absence of public art in the city? Rich men and women in Kampala are opening new hotels, shopping centers, office blocks and apartments every month. These are well traveled and widely read (I hope) people who are exposed to things like good architecture, art and culture. So why is the city so bland?
Is there an art association I can lobby? What do the architectures and builders discuss at their Annual General Debauchery Meetings? How about the media and entertainment sectors? Why don’t we have any interactive art?
In light of the absence of public art in Kampala, I will pay tribute now to whatever little there is – or whatever little I could photograph today – in the hope that someone will be inspired to brighten this city I call home.
Perhaps the best known public art in Kampala is the Independence Monument that made in 1962 by Gregory Maloba*, a Kenyan artist. Recently someone painted a colorful, but politically and artistically mural on the history of Uganda right behind the monument.
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In the foreground a Gordon Wavammuno-funded monument of the Buganda king, Kabaka Muteesa II, was recently unveiled. Let me correct that. It was recently un-plasticbagized. Only the top of the monument is on display. The rest is hidden away in ugly black ‘kavera’**.
A monument of an older Kabaka Muteesa II also graces the busy Kampala Road outside the dilapidated Amber House on Kampala Road.
Tropical Bank (former Libyan Arab Bank) has one of the largest murals in Kampala City. I have totally failed to find info on who created this art piece. Was recently given a number for a certain somebody and hopefully I will make a breakthrough soon. It represents monetary symbols from around the world and a detailed description of it is available in the banking hall. Unfortunately almost a quarter this beautiful art piece has been covered up and the façade of the building has been totally destroyed by the unattractive green and white glass ATM and signage next to it.
Just next to the DFCU Bank entrance on Kimathi Avenue an interesting mural.
However like the mural at Tropical Bank I was unable to get any info apart from a number of a caretaker of Imperial House. Does anyone have any more information?
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Churches are popular places for public art in Kampala. Rubaga Cathedral and Namirembe Cathedral are wonderful works of art in themselves and several churches have commissioned beautiful banners, batiks, sculptures and murals. Outside Christ the King Cathedral is this sculpture of Jesus. I like it, but I would like someone to start portraying Jesus as more human and less divine. After all he was fully man and fully God. But this isn’t a theological treatise …
I am ashamed that I have totally forgotten who created this stunning mural on the façade of St. Francis Chapel in Makerere University and pride has prevented me from calling up The Rev although he’s just retired from 20 years of service there. I promise I will remember it and tell you who it is soon. Even if you are the King of the Agnostics, St. Francis is worth a visit for the beautiful artwork all over the church, particularly the ceiling of the gallery which is a vivid artistic portrayal of the Book of Revelations.
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*Gregory Maloba and a British art professor, Jonathan Kingdon, initiated the art gallery at the Margaret Trowell Fine Art School in Kampala. Some of his work, including an intricately detailed baptismal font, is on display at St. Francis Chapel in Makerere University.
**Plastic bags (kavera) of particular grades were banned by the Government of Uganda this year. Apparently some people are above punishment.
